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Simul climbing with atc reddit In a medium rope range of 9. You're also spending less time doing the most statistically dangerous part of climbing. As for simul rapping, I thought about it, but it's not something I want to learn by reading some advice on the internet (with all due respect to the ones describing and explaining it here). May 21, 2019 · It seems to me this could work well for both leader and follower to carry some coils and be able to adjust the length of the rope as they are climbing, but I'd love any feedback others have about the setup, especially from anyone that tried using an atc guide, reverso, mega jul or something similar for simul climbing. com Lowering in an emergency is sooooo much easier than either a mirco or an atc/plate, and it doesn't inhibit any other aspect of climbing for me. If it doesn't, maybe the rope is stuck somewhere, but if that was the case, it probably would have gotten stuck before it went tight on you. Bonus discussion (healthy discussion only): I'm curious to know people's opinion if one day AI ATC will replace human ATC role? What do you do? start climbing (carefully). the smart alpine is also comparable - auto lock but the longer lever means easier feeding but more weight. The grigri is over hyped. The home of Climbing on reddit. I did lower with a gri-gri and an ATC before with an instructor so I went with the simple option that I knew. Simul-rappelling just seems unjustifiably sketchy to me. the best one by a large margin is the megajul and smart alpine. And yes we are scared of falling. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Here are a few more tips for climbing in a party of three: >>Make sure followers pay attention and keep ropes untangled. I've rappelled off mid route on a few occasions. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. 1. . " I use a reverso because it allows for more options in rescue or bailing situations. After a full day of climbing the difference in 2 hours of rapping vs 4 can be pretty big if you're pushing daylight or exhausted. Also it does not work well at all for simul climbing where the second leaves their device on the rope to adjust slack. See full list on 99boulders. Grigri still wins. - On a long, exposed approach or descent when a fall is very unlikely, but the consequences would be severe. With a Grigri I would have had to have either brought along a second device or used one of the non-standard descent methods (munter, lower, simul-rappel, etc. You are either on belay or you are simul climbing. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 3-9. As a climber you have to 100% trust your belayer and for someone to break that trust can be incredibly dangerous both mentally and physically to the climber. i own a figure 8, gri gri, megajul, smart alpine, atc and assisted atc. Rapping in the dark sucks. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. When I payed out all the rope I just took apart the anchor and started climbing. I have nothing but upmost respect for you guys. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. I do know that I've never reached the bottom of a rappel and thought "man, I sure am glad I simul-rappelled that. Climb up a bit and see if the rope goes tight. g: climbing pitch-by-pitch would result in getting hit by a storm or stranded overnight). ). lighter than an atc, locks like a gri gri, can rapel like an atc. Other tips: Sport climbing: lots of slack does not mean a soft . Simul Climbing is Most Useful: - On long, easy routes when it is safer to move fast (e. Jul 16, 2014 · When belaying two followers, you need to tend each rope closely; that means you probably won’t be doing much else, but two followers simul-climbing is still faster than three people climbing each pitch separately. Its the most simple rap to set up. Pros of Simul Raps: Less time rappelling. the atc is on point B attached to the rope and one climber is attached to point A of the pas and the other to point B Jun 13, 2022 · In this scenario—say, one climber with an ATC, the other with a Grigri—the top climber pre-rigs with an ATC and a third-hand back-up, and the bottom raps the knotted strand on the Grigri. Firstly congratulations to the Beyond ATC team. Edit: a better explanation, think of the PAS as a triangle A B C where B is the top. Not simul-rappel Like This. I've been climbing and rappelling for 20 years, but only really learned counterbalance a couple years ago, so maybe its just a lack of familiarity with the technique. the gri gri really adds a lot of weight - too much imo if you're doing class 3 On that kind of terrain, your biggest time saving by far (assuming you're both competent with your systems and efficient switch-overs), is going to come from being able to quickly transition into and out of simul climbing and picking the right system for the section, depending on ability and difficulty. I did do a quick research on how much a 50,000 characters are in the free version and this is what Chat GPT gave me. I will sometimes carry a microtrax on harder and longer routes "just in case" but honestly, the only two times I actually really bring one are rope soloing and long simul situations. 6 the megajul handles well for lead belaying and has enough braking force for even the highest force falls to not require much brake hand grip. Aug 11, 2022 · Why is an atc out of the question? There are plenty of ways to belay a second on double ropes with an ATC, ATC guide, mammut smart alpine, giga jul, etc, but that doesn't seem to be what you mean? I have actually simul'd on half ropes, once. I think sometimes people don’t realize how dangerous climbing can actually be and how damaging carelessness while climbing/belaying can be. The top climber’s belay device and engaged brake hand fix the two strands, allowing the bottom climber to do a single-strand rappel. okcxl rfxixkb fzicosq hdt hizeyp xsvpk iwcpibp xkdvgwb zcqp iwl |
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